在中国东北(过去/现在)生活是怎样的?

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-------------译者:龙腾翻译总管-审核者:龙腾翻译总管------------

How was/is living in Northeast China like?

在中国东北(过去/现在)生活是怎样的?

 
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-------------译者:ZQS3420-审核者:龙腾翻译总管------------

BillyBattsShinebox
Best weather in China - no constant swamp sack in the summer and no shitty ice cold rain in the winter. The air is dry as hell so it doesn't feel nearly as cold as -20 might in some other parts of China

中国最好的天气——夏天不会发生洪灾,冬天也没有糟糕的冰冷雨。这里的空气非常干燥,所以它没有像中国其他零下20度的地区那么冷。

The air is fucking toxic at times. You're talking pm2.5 levels of over 1000 when it gets really bad which is so bad you won't be able to see the tops of buildings.

空气有时真他妈的有毒。这说的是PM2.5值超过1000,情况糟糕到你连建筑物的顶部都看不清。

Nice food. Probably my favourite style of Chinese food even though it's too salty in many places.

这里食物很美味,可能是我最喜欢的中国菜式了,尽管在很多地方它都太咸了。

Pretty nice people in general. Probably more fun/relaxed/more interesting than people in most other parts of China. Even here in Zhejiang a lot of the time when somebody is actually friendly/welcoming to me for a change they end up being from Dongbei.

总的来说是这里的人都很好。可能比中国其他大多数地区的人更欢乐/更放松/更有趣。即使是在浙江,很多时候当有人对我表示友好或欢迎时,到最后(我发现)他们都来自东北。

Not many places to visit for such an enormous area. You have Harbin Dalian Changbaishan Yanbian and DANDONG which are pretty cool and that's about it as far as well known places worth visiting go.

这么大的地方去参观的地方却不多。你有哈尔滨、大连、长白山、延边和丹东,都很酷,这是到目前为止值得一去的著名旅游景点。

beyondchinatown
Not my experience obviously but Michael Meyer wrote about Northeast China in 'In Manchuria'. Worth checking out if you want to know more about the history of the place and how it became what it is today.

虽然不是我的亲身经历,但迈克尔·迈耶在(Michael Meyer)《满洲》中写到了中国东北。如果你想知道更多关于这个地方的历史以及它是如何成为今天这个样子的,那么(《满洲》)值得你去阅读。

-------------译者:carpediemzss-审核者:龙腾翻译总管------------

hapigood
OP this is quite accurate.

这是相当准确的。

Pollution is bad in the winter but fine in the summer. However last year whenever visiting Hebei I found Hebei to be worse.

冬天污染很严重,但是在夏天不会。但我去年去河北的时候,发现河北污染更严重。

Summer can be really hot despite being so cold in the winter.

不管冬天多么冷,夏天真的可以很热。

There is central heating in the winter. The landlord pays.

冬天有暖气,房东付费。

If you go somewhere coastal you lose the winter pollution and summer overheat. Coastal Shandong is similar in this regard.

如果你去沿海的某个地方,你不会感受到冬天的污染和夏天的过热。山东沿海的地方在这点就很类似。

You'll have no issue with accents it is all pretty standard Mandarin.

(人们)的口音也不会困扰你,他们说的都是很标准的普通话。

The economy has really suffered compared to the rest of China over the past 30 years.

过去30年,相比于中国的其他地方,东北的经济真的是差很多。

the_siloviki
Where did you live in Dongbei?

你在东北哪里生活?

Is it true that Dongbei doesn't really have dialects like Hokkien Cantonese Shanghainese etc.?

东北真的没有像闽南话、粤语、上海话等那样的的方言吗?

 -------------译者:樱木之舟-审核者:龙腾翻译总管------------

hapigood
More or less. Manchu is all but dead as a language.
Northeast lacks the Beijing add-an-R-to-every-other-word too which is a bonus.
Some places do have their own accent but not dialect and they tend to be the smaller cities Yingkou/Huludao area for example add rising tones to everything they say. But that's not a dialect just an accent / augmentation of tones.

满语,作为一种语言,差不多已经消亡了。
东北话不像北京话有儿化音。东北有些地方确实有他们自己的口音,但这不是另外的方言。例如像营口、葫芦岛这些小一点的城市,当地人说话倾向于声调上扬。但是这不是新的方言,这只是一种口音或者声调的延长。

KyleEvans
I have to disagree about the weather at least besides Dalian. It is seriously cold in winter. Average daily high in Harbin in January is -13 Celsius/9 Fahrenheit. Compare that to an average high in Minneapolis probably the coldest major city in the lower 48 of -4 Celsius/24 Fahrenheit. It's colder that the coldest major city in Canada (Winnipeg). Doesn't feel as cold as -20 in other parts of China yeah well it isn't -20 or below for weeks on end in other parts of China!
Meanwhile the summers are still hot enough that most people would want air conditioning but its harder to get because AC isn't nearly as universal as it is elsewhere.
The air is dry compared to much of the world but not compared to the North American mountain states/prairie provinces.
An added dimension to the pollution is that the coal dust turns the snow melt into a black ink that tracks everywhere. Hence the regular mopping in public buildings.

我至少对大连以外的(城市的)天气有不同的看法。 那里冬天真的很冷!哈尔滨一月份白天的平均温度是零下13摄氏度。与之相比,美国本土48州中最冷的大城市明尼阿波利斯平均温度可能才零下4摄氏度。它也比加拿大最冷的大城市温尼伯还要冷。没错。它的确没有像中国其他零下20度甚至温度更低的地区那么冷,但是中国其他地区不会持续数周低温!
同时,这里的夏天又很热,以至于大多数人都想要一个空调。但是这很难实现,因为空调在这里不是像中国其他地方那样普遍。
和世界上大部分地方相比,这里的空气显得有些干燥,但是也不像北美山地、草原地区那样干燥。
关于污染,我要补充的是,东北的煤尘使得积雪溶化成触目可见的黑色墨水。因此在公共建筑中会定期拖地。
      
 -------------译者:ysmorange-审核者:龙腾翻译总管------------

BillyBattsShinebox
It isn't for everybody but climate-wise I loved it. And I was in Changchun not Dongbei-lite Dalian
Never had much of a problem with AC though. My school and apartment both had it. Can't remember what restaurants were like but even in Zhejiang lots don't have it/set it to 30 degrees.

气候方面不适合每个人,但我喜欢。我当初在长春而不是东北大连。在我的学校和公寓都装有空调,所以这方面我没什么大问题。记不清楚餐馆长啥样了,但是即使在浙江很多餐馆也没有将温度设置到30度。

UGMadness
I live in Dalian and it has the best air for any major city in China because it's so windy so smog never accumulates. It's an awesome and modern city very unlike the industrial cities in the North. Temperatures are also very mild all year round. Definitely give it a visit if you're planning on touring China is one of the best and most enjoyable cities in Asia.

我住在大连。因为风很大,雾霾没有积聚,所以它拥有了中国所有主要城市中最好的空气。这是一个令人敬畏的现代化城市,与北方的工业城市不大一样。温度全年温和。如果你打算去中国旅行,一定要去那里游玩一番。它是亚洲最好、最宜人的城市之一。

stegg88
I done an ama on living in china (harbin) you can look through my posts.
its great for learning chinese and saving money. not so good for quality of life. thats the short of it.

我在中国哈尔滨建立了个医学协会来谋活,你可以看看我的帖子。
这里非常有利于学习中文和节省花销,但是生活质量不太高,这也是它的短板。

-------------译者:樱木之舟-审核者:龙腾翻译总管------------

bananameltdown
Some good summaries are already posted only thing left out is the absolutely reckless drinking.
My limit is four days of constant drunkenness with the in-laws before I get shipped back to Shanghai with a suitcase full of sausages and pork.

大家已经发表了一些很好的总结。唯一没有谈到的就是东北那里不计后果的饮酒风俗。
我所经历过的极限是和我妻子的家人亲戚们连续喝了四天,然后我坐船回到了上海,带的箱子里装满了香肠和猪肉。

tan_guan
Life is Dongbei is solitary poor nasty brutish and short.
On a serious note I think it's the best part of China - down-to-earth friendly and talkative people hearty and tasty food that doesn't have the oily/salty/sweet/spicy extremes like some regions do a respite from the heat that plagues most of the country green and empty space if you need it both men and women are taller and more attractive you can understand people the endearing erhuayin.
Cons - less history and culture than the rest of the country air pollution long bleak extremely cold winters alcoholism more random street violence than most of the country foreign stuff is more expensive and harder to get a long way from anywhere except Beijing Korea and Japan.

东北的生活是孤单的、贫穷的、粗野下流的,也是短暂的。
严肃地来说,我认为这是中国最好的地方。这里有本分友好的、健谈的居民,有丰盛美味的食物,不像其他地方那样太油、太咸、太甜或者太辣。是避暑的好去处,绿化很好,空间开阔。这里的男人和女人都高一些,也更有魅力,你可以听得懂他们那讨人喜欢的儿化音。
相对于中国其他地区,有着更少的历史文化,空气污染更少的,冬天极其寒冷且漫长,更多的酗酒者,随意的街头暴力现象频发,外国的东西更贵也更难买到。除了北京、朝鲜和日本,离哪里都很远。(译者注:这哥们写得太随意了,基本上没标点。)

-------------译者:ysmorange-审核者:龙腾翻译总管------------

KyleEvans
It's not functionally close to (South) Korea or Japan either (once one gets up to Heilongjiang anyway). Doing a visa run to either country would involve expensive flights. It's really only close to Russia.

它离韩国和日本都不近(一旦有人不管如何要去黑龙江的话)。办理去其中哪一个国家的签证都需要昂贵的航班费用。它也就只是离俄罗斯很近。

derrickcope
I like DongBei too. I am planning to live in Beidahu for all of December so I can ski everyday. The food the people the landscape are all great. If they can just get their pollution under control I would move there full time. I am sick of Shanghai that is for sure.

我也喜欢东北,我打算整个十二月都呆在北大壶,这样我就可以每天滑雪。食物、人、景观都很棒。他们只要能控制住污染,我就搬到那里常住。我讨厌上海那是肯定的。



xplosiveshake
Dongbeis alright the pollution isnt that toxic i mean some days the skies are kinda gray but only some of the time and its not like out in the sticks yeah there's not as many things to do or to see but the inner cities still have shit like gucci and LV so its not a total bumhole

东北还行啦,那里的污染不是有毒的那种。我的意思是某些日子也仅仅只有些时候天空会有些灰蒙蒙的。没错,(偏远区域)是没有那么多东西可看可玩,但是市中心还是有Gucci和LV这种店的,所以它并不是个流浪窝啦。

 
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