午夜阳光：搭乘挪威慢速列车的北极之旅
正文翻译
题图：从开往博德的火车最后一节车厢看到的景色可能看起来像中午，但实际上已经是凌晨3点，在极昼期间，太阳不会在北极圈内落下。
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图：尼德尔瓦河畔风景如画、色彩柔和的房屋，前面停靠着船只。
图：从奥斯陆到特隆赫姆的火车在卧铺车厢外设有下拉式座椅。
题图：从开往博德的火车最后一节车厢看到的景色可能看起来像中午，但实际上已经是凌晨3点，在极昼期间，太阳不会在北极圈内落下。
原创翻译：龙腾网 https://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处
The attendant, Tor Helge, potters around the dining car, his whistling presence companionship enough as I look out onto the Gudbrandsdalslågen, one of Norway’s longest rivers, its waters twinkling in the light. Like Christmas trees on stilts, pencil-thin pines fringe its banks and a sandy islet rises up like a backbone between the flow.
服务员托尔-海尔格在餐车周围忙碌着，他的口哨声足以陪伴我眺望挪威最长的河流之一，居德布兰达尔河(Gudbrandsdalslågen)，阳光下的河水，波光粼粼。铅笔粗细的松树就像踩在高跷上的圣诞树，在河岸两旁熠熠生辉，还有一个沙洲像脊梁一样耸立中分了流水。
服务员托尔-海尔格在餐车周围忙碌着，他的口哨声足以陪伴我眺望挪威最长的河流之一，居德布兰达尔河(Gudbrandsdalslågen)，阳光下的河水，波光粼粼。铅笔粗细的松树就像踩在高跷上的圣诞树，在河岸两旁熠熠生辉，还有一个沙洲像脊梁一样耸立中分了流水。
Whispering alongside, the train leans into a turn before we swing wide and I edge towards the window, spotting a handful of people fly-fishing for trout, pike and perch, waders up to their thighs. Hikers appear on a pathway and a group of cyclists glance sideways as we pass. The sky’s a milky blue, sunshine glinting on the peaks of the Dovrefjell mountains — it’s a classic summer scene. Only one thing’s different: I glance down at my watch and it’s 3.50am.
火车悄无声息地驶过，在转弯之前，我们晃动了一下，我向窗边看去，发现有几个人在飞钓鳟鱼、梭子鱼和鲈鱼，涉水已深至大腿。徒步旅行者走在一条小路上，我们经过时，一群骑自行车的人投来轻轻一瞥。天空呈现出混着乳白的蓝色，阳光在多夫勒山峰上闪烁，这是一幅典型的夏日景象。只有一点不同：我低头看了一眼手表，现在是凌晨3点50分了。
火车悄无声息地驶过，在转弯之前，我们晃动了一下，我向窗边看去，发现有几个人在飞钓鳟鱼、梭子鱼和鲈鱼，涉水已深至大腿。徒步旅行者走在一条小路上，我们经过时，一群骑自行车的人投来轻轻一瞥。天空呈现出混着乳白的蓝色，阳光在多夫勒山峰上闪烁，这是一幅典型的夏日景象。只有一点不同：我低头看了一眼手表，现在是凌晨3点50分了。
With a mild ache behind my eyes, I’m urging my body to adjust its circadian rhythms to the natural phenomenon of Norway’s midnight sun. North of the Arctic Circle, from mid-May to mid-July, the sun stays above the horizon, with no distinction between night and day. During this period, Norwegians embrace the gift of time — and light — by hiking, fishing, climbing, sailing, sea kayaking and generally roaming around drinking and partying in the soft orange glow of ‘night’.
我的眼睛微微发痛，正催促身体调整昼夜节律，以适应挪威午夜太阳的自然现象。在北极圈以北，从五月中旬到七月中旬，太阳一直停留在地平线以上，昼夜不分。在此期间，挪威人拥抱时间与光明的恩赐，去徒步旅行、钓鱼、登山、帆船、海上皮划艇，在“夜晚”柔和的橙色光芒中畅饮狂欢。
我的眼睛微微发痛，正催促身体调整昼夜节律，以适应挪威午夜太阳的自然现象。在北极圈以北，从五月中旬到七月中旬，太阳一直停留在地平线以上，昼夜不分。在此期间，挪威人拥抱时间与光明的恩赐，去徒步旅行、钓鱼、登山、帆船、海上皮划艇，在“夜晚”柔和的橙色光芒中畅饮狂欢。
Intrigued by the idea of groundhog daytime, I’m taking the sleeper train from the capital, Oslo, up to Trondheim on the 300-mile Dovre Railway. From Trondheim, I’ll transfer onto the Nordland Railway, which weaves up the country for another 450 miles to Bodø (pronounced boo-der), the final station on the line, just north of the Arctic Circle.
我对“土拨鼠节”的想法很感兴趣，因此将乘坐卧铺火车从首都奥斯陆出发，沿300英里长的多夫勒铁路前往特隆赫姆。再从特隆赫姆出发，我将转乘诺德兰铁路，沿途再蜿蜒450英里到达博德，也就是这条铁路位于北极圈内的终点站。
我对“土拨鼠节”的想法很感兴趣，因此将乘坐卧铺火车从首都奥斯陆出发，沿300英里长的多夫勒铁路前往特隆赫姆。再从特隆赫姆出发，我将转乘诺德兰铁路，沿途再蜿蜒450英里到达博德，也就是这条铁路位于北极圈内的终点站。
The previous day, I arrived in Oslo expecting to find the city alive with noisy beer gardens and gourmet food trucks, and cyclists weaving between them in floaty dresses — but a ghost town awaited. “Everyone leaves in July,” said Fredrik, a waiter at a bookshop cafe. “Most people go to France or Italy or escape to their summer houses. For two to three weeks in July, it’s dead here.”
前一天，我抵达奥斯陆，本以为这座城市会充满喧闹的啤酒花园和美食卡车，还有穿着飘逸裙子穿梭其间的骑车人，但等待我的却是一座鬼城。书店咖啡厅的服务员弗雷德里克说：“每个人都在七月离开。大多数人都去了法国或意大利，或者逃回自己的避暑别墅。在七月份的两到三周里，这里都是死气沉沉的。”
原创翻译：龙腾网 https://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处
前一天，我抵达奥斯陆，本以为这座城市会充满喧闹的啤酒花园和美食卡车，还有穿着飘逸裙子穿梭其间的骑车人，但等待我的却是一座鬼城。书店咖啡厅的服务员弗雷德里克说：“每个人都在七月离开。大多数人都去了法国或意大利，或者逃回自己的避暑别墅。在七月份的两到三周里，这里都是死气沉沉的。”
原创翻译：龙腾网 https://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处
Fortunately, the station had a number of restaurants where I could linger until it was time to board the train. Departing promptly from platform four, the service creaked and groaned out of Oslo Central at 11pm, before it relaxed into the journey, an even thump-thump taking us behind warmly lit apartment blocks, the city’s spread of green spaces dense and frequent. It wasn’t long before we pulled east, where the area’s wealth revealed itself in the form of detached, multi-levelled homes with Teslas parked in the driveways and boutique shops on the high streets.
幸运的是，火车站有许多餐馆，我可以在那里逗留到发车时间。列车准时从四号站台出发，晚上11点，列车嘎吱嘎吱地驶出奥斯陆中央火车站，然后缓缓驶入旅途，“哐-哐”的规律声响把我们带到灯光温暖的公寓楼后面，这个城市的绿地纷繁而密集。没过多久，我们向东驶去，该地区的富裕显露无遗，多层独立式住宅的车道上停满了特斯拉，商业街上全是精品店。
幸运的是，火车站有许多餐馆，我可以在那里逗留到发车时间。列车准时从四号站台出发，晚上11点，列车嘎吱嘎吱地驶出奥斯陆中央火车站，然后缓缓驶入旅途，“哐-哐”的规律声响把我们带到灯光温暖的公寓楼后面，这个城市的绿地纷繁而密集。没过多久，我们向东驶去，该地区的富裕显露无遗，多层独立式住宅的车道上停满了特斯拉，商业街上全是精品店。
By midnight, the clouds had darkened and stretched into indigo ripples, but on the horizon, a belt of orange refused to fade, eventually turning pink. As we passed the edge of the Vorma River, a white mist hovered above it until it widened into Lake Mjøsa, Norway’s largest lake. Still as glass, it appeared silver in the twilight, the outline of fishing boats just visible on its surface. Unable to look away, I sat at the window eyeing the pink glow, determined not to lose it as it flashed in and out between rising mountain peaks until the train barrelled into a wild expanse of darkness and the lake vanished from view.
午夜时分，云层已经变暗，延伸成靛蓝色的涟漪，但在地平线上，一条橙色的带子却迟迟不肯褪去，最终变成了粉红色。当我们经过沃马河的边缘时，白雾在河面上盘旋，直到河面变宽，汇入挪威最大的湖泊--米约萨湖。湖面静如玻璃，在暮色中显得银光闪闪，湖面上渔船的轮廓清晰可见。我目不转睛地坐在窗前，注视着那粉红色的光芒，下定决心一定不能错过它在高耸的山峰间忽隐忽现的身影，直到火车驶入一片漆黑的荒野，湖面消失于视野。
午夜时分，云层已经变暗，延伸成靛蓝色的涟漪，但在地平线上，一条橙色的带子却迟迟不肯褪去，最终变成了粉红色。当我们经过沃马河的边缘时，白雾在河面上盘旋，直到河面变宽，汇入挪威最大的湖泊--米约萨湖。湖面静如玻璃，在暮色中显得银光闪闪，湖面上渔船的轮廓清晰可见。我目不转睛地坐在窗前，注视着那粉红色的光芒，下定决心一定不能错过它在高耸的山峰间忽隐忽现的身影，直到火车驶入一片漆黑的荒野，湖面消失于视野。
On any other night, I’d have taken myself off to bed, but even at 12.30am, the dining car was busy, passengers tuned into the summer vibe. Two young women shared a bottle of rosé, amusing each other with stories of terrible dates, while an elderly couple sipped beer, their matching Merrell sandals suggesting a walking trip ahead. Meanwhile, two dishevelled parents boarded with twin toddlers asleep in buggies, their fat little feet bare in the heat. Just before 1am I noticed the teen who had been reading in the corner was now on the platform at Brumunddal, wrapped in his father’s embrace. It seemed a fitting point at which to turn in.
如果是别的夜晚，我早就上床睡觉了，但现在即使已经凌晨12点30分，餐车里还是很热闹，乘客们都沉浸在夏日的氛围中。两位年轻女士共饮一瓶桃红葡萄酒，用糟糕的约会故事取笑对方；一对老年夫妇喝着啤酒，他们脚上配套的迈乐(Merrell)凉鞋预示着他们将进行一次徒步旅行。与此同时，两位衣衫凌乱的父母带着在婴儿车里熟睡的双胞胎幼儿上了车，在炎热的天气里孩子们光着肥嘟嘟的小脚丫。临近凌晨1点，我注意到那个一直在角落里看书的孩子现在正躺在布鲁门达尔站的站台上，被父亲搂在怀里。现在似乎是一个适合入睡的时间点了。
原创翻译：龙腾网 https://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处
如果是别的夜晚，我早就上床睡觉了，但现在即使已经凌晨12点30分，餐车里还是很热闹，乘客们都沉浸在夏日的氛围中。两位年轻女士共饮一瓶桃红葡萄酒，用糟糕的约会故事取笑对方；一对老年夫妇喝着啤酒，他们脚上配套的迈乐(Merrell)凉鞋预示着他们将进行一次徒步旅行。与此同时，两位衣衫凌乱的父母带着在婴儿车里熟睡的双胞胎幼儿上了车，在炎热的天气里孩子们光着肥嘟嘟的小脚丫。临近凌晨1点，我注意到那个一直在角落里看书的孩子现在正躺在布鲁门达尔站的站台上，被父亲搂在怀里。现在似乎是一个适合入睡的时间点了。
原创翻译：龙腾网 https://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处
Debating whether to pull down the blackout blind in my compartment, I finally left it open, too nervous to risk sleeping through to Trondheim and missing the scenery. Quiet, with barely a jolt, the service was one of the most comfortable sleeper trains I’d ever ridden. Still, at 3.20am, as we passed through Dovre National Park, I sacrificed my slumber to watch peach clouds beginning to warm the tops of mountains and reflect onto the lakes.
我犹豫着是否要拉下车厢里的遮光帘，最后还是没拉，因为我还是忧心，不想冒错过风景直接睡到特隆赫姆才醒的风险。列车很安静，也几乎没有颠簸，是我乘坐过的最舒适的卧铺火车之一。不过，凌晨3点20分，当我们经过多夫雷费尔国家公园时，我还是牺牲了安眠，去看桃红色的云朵开始温暖山顶，倒映在湖面。
我犹豫着是否要拉下车厢里的遮光帘，最后还是没拉，因为我还是忧心，不想冒错过风景直接睡到特隆赫姆才醒的风险。列车很安静，也几乎没有颠簸，是我乘坐过的最舒适的卧铺火车之一。不过，凌晨3点20分，当我们经过多夫雷费尔国家公园时，我还是牺牲了安眠，去看桃红色的云朵开始温暖山顶，倒映在湖面。
Local source
当地旅游资源
当地旅游资源
It’s 7am and golden light is flooding dewy meadows, with long shadows stretching over the train and halos of mist swirling in the valleys. I’m joined by Lars and Astrid, who are travelling to Trondheim for a weekend break of eating and walking — “before we have children and they ruin everything,” says Lars, as Astrid pulls a face. “Like Oslo, it’ll be quiet,” she says, “but we like that.”
现在是早上7点，金色的阳光洒满了露珠般的草地，长长的影子在火车上延伸，雾气在山谷中翻腾。拉斯和阿斯特丽德以及我，要前往特隆赫姆度过一个边逛边吃的周末假期--“趁我们还没有孩子，还没被他们毁掉一切，”拉斯说，阿斯特丽德则拉着脸。“和奥斯陆一样，这里会很安静，”她说，“但我们喜欢这样。”
现在是早上7点，金色的阳光洒满了露珠般的草地，长长的影子在火车上延伸，雾气在山谷中翻腾。拉斯和阿斯特丽德以及我，要前往特隆赫姆度过一个边逛边吃的周末假期--“趁我们还没有孩子，还没被他们毁掉一切，”拉斯说，阿斯特丽德则拉着脸。“和奥斯陆一样，这里会很安静，”她说，“但我们喜欢这样。”
They tell me it’s a different story in August, when chefs come from all over the country to cook at the Trǿndelag Food Festival, and the crowds follow. The city is known as the food capital of Norway and has three Michelin-starred restaurants — Credo, Fagn and Speilsalen. This is another reason why I’m breaking up my journey with a night here.
他们告诉我，八月的特伦德拉格美食节上，厨师们从全国各地赶来烹饪美食，人潮也随之而来。这座城市被誉为挪威的美食之都，拥有三家米其林星级餐厅--Credo、Fagn和Speilsalen。这也是我为什么要中断旅程在这里住上一晚的另一个原因。
他们告诉我，八月的特伦德拉格美食节上，厨师们从全国各地赶来烹饪美食，人潮也随之而来。这座城市被誉为挪威的美食之都，拥有三家米其林星级餐厅--Credo、Fagn和Speilsalen。这也是我为什么要中断旅程在这里住上一晚的另一个原因。
“You should visit Sellanraa Bok & Bar,” says Astrid. “It’s very seasonal and everything is from the surrounding region, so you’ll get a taste of the local flavours.” She sketches directions to it in my notebook before spotting the convergence of railway tracks. “We’re here,” she says, sliding out from the table and wishing me a happy onward journey.
阿斯特丽德说：“你应该去瑟兰拉咖啡馆。这里非常注重季节性，所有菜品都来自周边地区，因此你可以品尝到当地风味。”她在我的笔记本上勾画出了去那里的路线，然后就看到了铁轨的交汇处。“我们到了，”她说着，从桌边滑出，并祝我一路顺风。
阿斯特丽德说：“你应该去瑟兰拉咖啡馆。这里非常注重季节性，所有菜品都来自周边地区，因此你可以品尝到当地风味。”她在我的笔记本上勾画出了去那里的路线，然后就看到了铁轨的交汇处。“我们到了，”她说着，从桌边滑出，并祝我一路顺风。
图：尼德尔瓦河畔风景如画、色彩柔和的房屋，前面停靠着船只。
The coastal freshness slaps me awake as I cross the bridge over the Nidelva River into town, pausing to take in the promenade — a strip of six-storey buildings stretched out like a Dulux colour palette, sailboats tethered in the foreground. From here, it’s a 10-minute walk to the Britannia Hotel, and I’m hoping my room is ready. As much as sleeper trains fulfil the fantasy of romance, they do come with a downside: for passengers returning home, it’s no bother to arrive in the small hours and head straight off for a hot shower and breakfast. But for those of us who are strangers to a destination, perhaps waking less than refreshed, it can often mean mooching around with bags, killing time in coffee shops until check-in. Fortunately, my room is available and I sleep for a couple of hours before experiencing one of the greatest breakfasts of my life.
当我穿过尼德尔瓦河上的大桥进入小镇时，海岸的清新气息让我清醒过来，我驻足欣赏海滨长廊--一条由六层楼高的建筑组成的长廊像多乐士的调色板一样延伸开来，帆船拴在前景处。从这里步行10分钟即可到达不列颠尼亚酒店，希望我的房间已经准备好了。虽然卧铺火车满足了人们对浪漫的幻想，但它也有缺点：对于回家的乘客来说，凌晨时分抵达，然后直接去洗个热水澡、吃顿早餐，也不算麻烦。但对于我们这些对目的地一无所知的人来说，也许一觉醒来还没来得及养足精神，这往往意味着在检票之前，要拎着行李在咖啡馆里打发时间。幸运的是，我的房间准备好了，我睡了几个小时，然后就体验到了人生中最美味的早餐之一。
当我穿过尼德尔瓦河上的大桥进入小镇时，海岸的清新气息让我清醒过来，我驻足欣赏海滨长廊--一条由六层楼高的建筑组成的长廊像多乐士的调色板一样延伸开来，帆船拴在前景处。从这里步行10分钟即可到达不列颠尼亚酒店，希望我的房间已经准备好了。虽然卧铺火车满足了人们对浪漫的幻想，但它也有缺点：对于回家的乘客来说，凌晨时分抵达，然后直接去洗个热水澡、吃顿早餐，也不算麻烦。但对于我们这些对目的地一无所知的人来说，也许一觉醒来还没来得及养足精神，这往往意味着在检票之前，要拎着行李在咖啡馆里打发时间。幸运的是，我的房间准备好了，我睡了几个小时，然后就体验到了人生中最美味的早餐之一。
There are also comically large rounds of local cheeses on cake stands alongside rumpled bries and crumbly blues. There’s cheese that’s speckled, seeded, hard, soft, made from ewe’s milk, cow’s milk and goat’s milk, then on the side, dollops of preserve, quince and jam. It’s almost overwhelming.
蛋糕架上摆放着有些滑稽的大块当地奶酪，旁边还有皱巴巴的布里奶酪和碎蓝莓。有斑点的、有籽的、有硬的、有软的、有母羊奶做的、有牛奶做的、有山羊奶做的，边上还摆放着各种果酱、榅桲果酱等等。让人应接不暇，无法抗拒。
蛋糕架上摆放着有些滑稽的大块当地奶酪，旁边还有皱巴巴的布里奶酪和碎蓝莓。有斑点的、有籽的、有硬的、有软的、有母羊奶做的、有牛奶做的、有山羊奶做的，边上还摆放着各种果酱、榅桲果酱等等。让人应接不暇，无法抗拒。
I sit down with Olav Svarliaunet, a junior sous-chef who takes part in August’s three-day food festival. “We only use local produce here and everything is labelled to show where it’s from,” he says. The hotel has its own farm, Braattan Gaard, about half an hour’s drive away. It has more than 5,000 apple trees, which provide the cold-press juice for breakfast. “We get a lot of produce from the mountain village of Røros, two hours south of here, including eggs, cream, milk, butter and all our cured meats and fish,” Olav says. With the exception of perhaps a few tropical fruits like pineapple, everything is Norwegian.
我与奥拉夫-斯瓦利亚内特坐在一起，他是一名将参加八月份为期三天美食节的初级副厨师长。他说：“我们只使用本地产品，每样东西都贴了标签，标明产地。”酒店拥有自己的农场Braattan Gaard，距离酒店约半小时车程。农场有5000多棵苹果树，为早餐提供冷压果汁。“我们从南面两小时车程的勒罗斯山村采购大量农产品，包括鸡蛋、奶油、牛奶、黄油以及所有腌肉和鱼。”奥拉夫说，除了菠萝等几种热带水果外，其他都是挪威产的。
我与奥拉夫-斯瓦利亚内特坐在一起，他是一名将参加八月份为期三天美食节的初级副厨师长。他说：“我们只使用本地产品，每样东西都贴了标签，标明产地。”酒店拥有自己的农场Braattan Gaard，距离酒店约半小时车程。农场有5000多棵苹果树，为早餐提供冷压果汁。“我们从南面两小时车程的勒罗斯山村采购大量农产品，包括鸡蛋、奶油、牛奶、黄油以及所有腌肉和鱼。”奥拉夫说，除了菠萝等几种热带水果外，其他都是挪威产的。
Trondheim has switched to summer mode and many of its restaurants are closed, but this gives me the chance to see more of the place. I amble along cobbled streets filled with walkers, wet retrievers trotting at their heels. It’s unusually warm as I embark upon the Midtbyrunden, a 3.7-mile trail that meanders around the city centre following the Trondheim Fjord and Nidelva River. A beautiful route, it takes me over bridges and around docks, where swimmers yelp in the chilly waters. I linger in the wharf neighbourhood of Bakklandet, sipping an iced chilli chocolate milk from Dromedar Kaffebar before browsing a range of shops selling everything from artisan soap to cashmere blankets. Painted in soft pinks and sage greens, some of the timber houses look empty, their walls covered by trailing blooms of roses and their ledges lined with boxes of buttery yellow flowers.
特隆赫姆已经进入夏季模式，许多餐馆都关门了，但这给了我更多机会去看看这个地方。我漫步在鹅卵石铺就的街道上，街上到处都是散步的人，湿漉漉的寻回犬紧随其后小跑着。当我踏上米特比伦登时，天气异常温暖，这条3.7英里长的小径沿着特隆赫姆峡湾和尼德尔瓦河蜿蜒在市中心。这条路线风景优美，沿途经过桥梁和码头，有游泳者在寒冷的河水中嬉戏。我在巴克兰迪斯码头区流连忘返，在Dromedar咖啡厅喝了一杯冰镇辣椒巧克力牛奶，然后逛了逛从手工肥皂到羊绒毯子等各种精品店。一些木制房屋粉刷成柔和的粉红色和鼠尾草绿，看上去空空荡荡，墙壁上挂满了曳地盛开的玫瑰，窗台上摆满了一盒盒黄油色的花朵。
特隆赫姆已经进入夏季模式，许多餐馆都关门了，但这给了我更多机会去看看这个地方。我漫步在鹅卵石铺就的街道上，街上到处都是散步的人，湿漉漉的寻回犬紧随其后小跑着。当我踏上米特比伦登时，天气异常温暖，这条3.7英里长的小径沿着特隆赫姆峡湾和尼德尔瓦河蜿蜒在市中心。这条路线风景优美，沿途经过桥梁和码头，有游泳者在寒冷的河水中嬉戏。我在巴克兰迪斯码头区流连忘返，在Dromedar咖啡厅喝了一杯冰镇辣椒巧克力牛奶，然后逛了逛从手工肥皂到羊绒毯子等各种精品店。一些木制房屋粉刷成柔和的粉红色和鼠尾草绿，看上去空空荡荡，墙壁上挂满了曳地盛开的玫瑰，窗台上摆满了一盒盒黄油色的花朵。
By the end of the walk, I’ve worked off breakfast and decide to take Astrid’s advice and seek out Sellanraa Bok & Bar. The menu is mostly vegetarian, featuring colourful plates of sliced hasselback carrots with baked shallots and turnips, most of which is sourced from nearby Grindal Farm. Inside, it’s a cross between a bookshop and a pantry — the top shelves are lined with jars of oranges and chanterelles brewing in murky yellow brines, sitting alongside hardbacks of Elif Batuman’s The Idiot and Albert Camus’ The Plague. Over a plate of fresh shrimp and shaved fennel, I reflect how easy it’s been to while away the day, grazing on small dishes between bursts of windy walks along the coast.
散步结束时，我已经吃完了早餐，决定听从阿斯特丽德的建议，去瑟兰拉咖啡馆吃点东西。这里的菜单以素食为主，有五颜六色的赫塞尔贝克胡萝卜片配烤香葱和芜菁，其中大部分都来自附近的格林达尔农场。餐厅内部位于书店和储藏室之间--最上层的架子上摆满了橘子罐子和在浑浊的黄色盐水中酝酿的鸡油菌，旁边还有埃利夫-巴图曼的《白痴》和阿尔伯特-加缪的《瘟疫》等精装书。吃着一盘新鲜的虾和茴香，我回想着在海岸边吹着风的散步间隙，吃着小菜消磨时光的日子是多么惬意。
原创翻译：龙腾网 https://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处
散步结束时，我已经吃完了早餐，决定听从阿斯特丽德的建议，去瑟兰拉咖啡馆吃点东西。这里的菜单以素食为主，有五颜六色的赫塞尔贝克胡萝卜片配烤香葱和芜菁，其中大部分都来自附近的格林达尔农场。餐厅内部位于书店和储藏室之间--最上层的架子上摆满了橘子罐子和在浑浊的黄色盐水中酝酿的鸡油菌，旁边还有埃利夫-巴图曼的《白痴》和阿尔伯特-加缪的《瘟疫》等精装书。吃着一盘新鲜的虾和茴香，我回想着在海岸边吹着风的散步间隙，吃着小菜消磨时光的日子是多么惬意。
原创翻译：龙腾网 https://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处
The journey north
北上之旅
北上之旅
The following evening, I’m on the platform just before 11pm to board the sleeper train to Bodø. On the horizon, the sun threatens to sink, but instead spreads outwards in a pool of mellow yellow, throwing a healthy glow onto passengers’ cheeks. At this time of year, the trains are at capacity and I’d been unsuccessful in trying to book a sleeper carriage. I’d secured a ticket in what’s called ‘Premium Pluss’, where wide seats recline up to 45 degrees and you’re provided with blankets, pillows, a hot breakfast and unlimited hot drinks.
第二天晚上11点前，我从站台登上了开往博德的卧铺火车。在地平线上，太阳将要沉入地下，但却向外扩散出一抹柔和的黄色，给乘客的脸颊带来健康的光彩。每年的这个时候，火车都会满员，我一直试图预订卧铺车厢，但都没有成功。我买到了一张名为“优享+”（Premium Pluss）的车票，这里宽大的座椅可以倾斜45度，还提供毯子、枕头、热早餐和无限量热饮。
第二天晚上11点前，我从站台登上了开往博德的卧铺火车。在地平线上，太阳将要沉入地下，但却向外扩散出一抹柔和的黄色，给乘客的脸颊带来健康的光彩。每年的这个时候，火车都会满员，我一直试图预订卧铺车厢，但都没有成功。我买到了一张名为“优享+”（Premium Pluss）的车票，这里宽大的座椅可以倾斜45度，还提供毯子、枕头、热早餐和无限量热饮。
图：从奥斯陆到特隆赫姆的火车在卧铺车厢外设有下拉式座椅。
Within minutes, the sweaty fear of not being able to lie flat at any point of this leg of the journey has evaporated, and I’m snuggled up in what feels like the cosiest carriage on the train, my fellow passengers pulling on hoodies and watching films on their phones. Tor, the attendant from the previous leg, is back on board and only too pleased to demonstrate the nifty foot rests, side tables and reading lights. He takes my order for breakfast and directs me to the tail end of the train to see the tracks snake off into what’s almost a sunset. From the back window, I watch as we curl around the edge of the Trondheim Fjord, its waters orange and pink. There’s a sense of magic as the light deepens and intensifies, before simmering to a softness I’ve never witnessed before. A feeling of in-betweenness gets under my skin as I stand with one foot on either side of two carriages, watching the day not turn into night as our train crosses the joints and hinges of the land, waterways flowing in from all sides.
短短几分钟内，对在这段旅途中任何时候都无法平躺的汗流浃背的恐惧就烟消云散了，我感觉是依偎在火车上最舒适的车厢里，我的同伴们穿着连帽衫，用手机看着电影。上一段旅程的乘务员托尔又回到了车上，他非常高兴地向我展示了舒适的脚踏板、边桌和阅读灯。他帮我点了早餐，然后把我带到火车尾部，让我看铁轨蜿蜒而去，宛如夕阳西下。从后窗望去，我们绕着特隆赫姆峡湾的边缘蜿蜒前行，峡湾的海水呈现出橙色和粉红色。随着光线的加深和增强，然后慢慢变得柔和，有一种我从未见过的神奇的感觉。当我两脚分开站立在两节车厢的两侧，看着我们的列车穿过大地的关节和结合处，水道从四面八方汇过来，白昼也不再变成黑夜，一种居于天地之间的感觉油然而生。
短短几分钟内，对在这段旅途中任何时候都无法平躺的汗流浃背的恐惧就烟消云散了，我感觉是依偎在火车上最舒适的车厢里，我的同伴们穿着连帽衫，用手机看着电影。上一段旅程的乘务员托尔又回到了车上，他非常高兴地向我展示了舒适的脚踏板、边桌和阅读灯。他帮我点了早餐，然后把我带到火车尾部，让我看铁轨蜿蜒而去，宛如夕阳西下。从后窗望去，我们绕着特隆赫姆峡湾的边缘蜿蜒前行，峡湾的海水呈现出橙色和粉红色。随着光线的加深和增强，然后慢慢变得柔和，有一种我从未见过的神奇的感觉。当我两脚分开站立在两节车厢的两侧，看着我们的列车穿过大地的关节和结合处，水道从四面八方汇过来，白昼也不再变成黑夜，一种居于天地之间的感觉油然而生。
This Nordland line crosses 293 bridges and runs through 154 tunnels, much of which I miss as I doze off at 1am, waking five hours later as sunlight pours across the Ranfjorden, a wide-mouthed body of water that swings around the base of forested mountains, its green depths bubbling with life.
这条北欧铁路穿过了293座桥梁和154个隧道，我在凌晨1点打瞌睡时错过了其中的很多内容，5个小时后醒来时，阳光已经洒满兰恩峡湾，这是一片广阔的水域，在森林覆盖的山脚下荡来荡去，绿色的深处充满生机。
这条北欧铁路穿过了293座桥梁和154个隧道，我在凌晨1点打瞌睡时错过了其中的很多内容，5个小时后醒来时，阳光已经洒满兰恩峡湾，这是一片广阔的水域，在森林覆盖的山脚下荡来荡去，绿色的深处充满生机。
Once again, I take myself off to the dining car, the beating heart of every sleeper train, and over a hot salami sandwich, I get chatting to Ludwig Herder, who’s been sleeping in the play area of the family carriage. A sailor for the coastguard, living in Tromsø, Ludwig has adamantly refused to fly for the past 15 years. When I ask about his choice of sleeping compartment, he looks sheepish and laughs, retying his pony tail as he gathers his thoughts. “Everyone has the time to travel in summer, so it gets very booked up. And it’s impossible to get a sleeper compartment because you can’t just buy a single bed, you have to buy both the berths.” He pulls out his phone and shows me a Norwegian Facebook group where passengers share their travelling dates to see if they can buddy up in compartments. “Despite my best efforts, I couldn’t get one,” he says.
我再次来到餐车，这里是卧铺火车的心脏，吃着热腾腾的腊肠三明治，我和路德维希-赫德聊了起来，他一直睡在家庭车厢的游戏区。路德维格是海岸警卫队的一名水手，住在特罗姆瑟，过去15年来一直坚定地拒绝乘坐飞机。当我问起他选择睡游戏区的原因时，他一脸腼腆地笑了笑，一边整理思绪，一边重新扎起了马尾辫。“夏天大家都有时间去旅行，所以包厢都订满了。而且不可能买到卧铺车厢，因为你不能只买一张单人床，必须得买两个铺位。”他拿出手机，向我展示了一个挪威的Facebook群组，在这个群组里，乘客们分享他们的旅行日期，看看他们是否能在包厢里结伴而行。他说：“尽管我尽了最大努力，但还是没能找到一个。”
原创翻译：龙腾网 https://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处
我再次来到餐车，这里是卧铺火车的心脏，吃着热腾腾的腊肠三明治，我和路德维希-赫德聊了起来，他一直睡在家庭车厢的游戏区。路德维格是海岸警卫队的一名水手，住在特罗姆瑟，过去15年来一直坚定地拒绝乘坐飞机。当我问起他选择睡游戏区的原因时，他一脸腼腆地笑了笑，一边整理思绪，一边重新扎起了马尾辫。“夏天大家都有时间去旅行，所以包厢都订满了。而且不可能买到卧铺车厢，因为你不能只买一张单人床，必须得买两个铺位。”他拿出手机，向我展示了一个挪威的Facebook群组，在这个群组里，乘客们分享他们的旅行日期，看看他们是否能在包厢里结伴而行。他说：“尽管我尽了最大努力，但还是没能找到一个。”
原创翻译：龙腾网 https://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处
Located 220 miles inside the Arctic Circle, Tromsø is at the top of the country. Here, both the midnight sun and the Northern Lights are at their finest. “My girlfriend likes to hike and I enjoy going skiing,” Ludwig says. “In June, there was still more than six feet of powder to ski on at night.” He gets off at Fauske station, from where it’s a six-hour bus ride to Narvik and then a four-hour ride to Tromsø. With that journey ahead of him, I can’t help but marvel at his dedication to being flight-free.
特罗姆瑟位于北极圈内220英里处，是挪威的最高点。在这里，午夜阳光和极光都是最美的。路德维格说：“我的女朋友喜欢徒步旅行，而我喜欢滑雪。六月份的时候，晚上还有六英尺多厚的积雪可以滑雪。”他在弗于斯克站下车，从那里坐六个小时的汽车到纳尔维克，然后再坐四个小时的汽车到特罗姆瑟。他的旅程还在继续，我不禁感叹他对不坐飞机的执着。
特罗姆瑟位于北极圈内220英里处，是挪威的最高点。在这里，午夜阳光和极光都是最美的。路德维格说：“我的女朋友喜欢徒步旅行，而我喜欢滑雪。六月份的时候，晚上还有六英尺多厚的积雪可以滑雪。”他在弗于斯克站下车，从那里坐六个小时的汽车到纳尔维克，然后再坐四个小时的汽车到特罗姆瑟。他的旅程还在继续，我不禁感叹他对不坐飞机的执着。
From my window seat, I try to breathe in the final sights of the trip — of deer bounding across fields, and fjords rushing past below. As towns flit by, I’m reminded again that it’s the particular privilege of the train traveller to witness the intricate details of other people’s lives: the workman repainting a church spire, the couple kissing on a platform, the patterns on kitchen curtains.
在靠窗的座位上，我努力在旅途最后中的景色里呼吸--鹿群在田野间奔跑，峡湾在脚下奔腾。当城镇飞驰向后时，我再次意识到，火车旅行者有幸目睹他人生活中错综复杂的细节：重新粉刷教堂尖顶的工人、站台上接吻的情侣、厨房窗帘上的图案。
在靠窗的座位上，我努力在旅途最后中的景色里呼吸--鹿群在田野间奔跑，峡湾在脚下奔腾。当城镇飞驰向后时，我再次意识到，火车旅行者有幸目睹他人生活中错综复杂的细节：重新粉刷教堂尖顶的工人、站台上接吻的情侣、厨房窗帘上的图案。
And then it’s over. Just before 9am, we terminate at Bodø, and my train family and I disembark — fishing gear and bikes are unloaded and dogs happily stretch their legs.
然后就结束了。上午9点前，我们抵达博德，我和我的列车家人们下了火车--渔具和自行车被卸下，狗儿们开心地伸着懒腰。
然后就结束了。上午9点前，我们抵达博德，我和我的列车家人们下了火车--渔具和自行车被卸下，狗儿们开心地伸着懒腰。
Within an hour, it’s clear this is a junction town that most travellers pass through for its easy access to the outdoors: taking a ferry to the Lofoten Islands, hiking the glacier at Svartisen or fishing and scuba diving at Saltstraumen, home to the world’s strongest maelstrom, or whirlpool. Feeling the cumulative lack of sleep, and having centred the majority of my trip on food, my own plans involve little more than a walk along the marina with an ice cream from the local van. I follow this up with a search for presents for my children, who’ll have to make do with a compass and a stuffed toy moose. That is until I realise I’m travelling home by train and can take them a bag of baked kanelboller (plump knots of sticky cinnamon bread, dusted with sugar) from PåPir BibliotekBar, the cafe at Bodø’s library.
不到一个小时，我们就发现这是一个大多数旅行者都会经过的交界小镇，因为这里的户外活动非常方便：乘坐渡轮前往罗弗敦群岛，在斯瓦蒂森山的冰川徒步旅行，或者在萨尔特流钓鱼和潜水，这里有世界上最强的漩涡。由于睡眠不足，加上旅途的大部分时间都集中在美食上，我自己的计划只是沿着码头散散步，从当地的面包车上买一个冰淇淋。接下来，我还要为孩子们寻找礼物，只能用指南针和麋鹿毛绒玩具来凑合了。直到我意识到我要坐火车回家，可以给他们带一袋博德PåPir图书馆的咖啡厅烤的肉桂面包（粘乎乎的肉桂面包，撒了糖）。
不到一个小时，我们就发现这是一个大多数旅行者都会经过的交界小镇，因为这里的户外活动非常方便：乘坐渡轮前往罗弗敦群岛，在斯瓦蒂森山的冰川徒步旅行，或者在萨尔特流钓鱼和潜水，这里有世界上最强的漩涡。由于睡眠不足，加上旅途的大部分时间都集中在美食上，我自己的计划只是沿着码头散散步，从当地的面包车上买一个冰淇淋。接下来，我还要为孩子们寻找礼物，只能用指南针和麋鹿毛绒玩具来凑合了。直到我意识到我要坐火车回家，可以给他们带一袋博德PåPir图书馆的咖啡厅烤的肉桂面包（粘乎乎的肉桂面包，撒了糖）。
After a walk around the town’s parks, I’m geared up for dinner at Lystpå, a fine-dining restaurant, but a particularly relaxed one with throws and cushions. Served on slate plates are starters such as pan-fried scallops fizzing in mussel bisque and truffle croquettes followed by mains like perfectly seared reindeer. By the time I’m cracking into creme brulee and homemade doughnuts, that deep orange glow I’m getting so used to here catches my eye; enriching and invigorating, it brings a sense of calm and joy. No wonder Norwegians stay out all night basking in its goodness. Michał Młynarczyk, who runs the restaurant, tells me now’s the time to visit Keiservarden, one of the area’s most popular hiking destinations. I’m ready to walk off the meal, but at 11pm? “There’s no better time — everyone does it,” he says.
在镇上的公园散步后，我准备去Lystpå吃晚饭，这是一家高级餐厅，但摆放着毛毯和靠垫，显得格外轻松。用石板盘子盛放的开胃菜有贻贝浓汤煎扇贝和松露炸丸子，然后是像烤驯鹿一样的主菜。当我开始品尝奶油布丁和自制甜甜圈时，我的眼前浮现出一种我在这里已经习以为常的深橘色光芒；这种光芒既丰富又振奋人心，给人带来一种平静和愉悦的感觉。难怪挪威人彻夜不眠，沉浸在它的美好之中。经营这家餐厅的米哈乌-米纳奇克告诉我，现在正是去凯瑟瓦尔登的好时候，那里是该地区最受欢迎的徒步旅行目的地之一。我已经准备好结束这顿饭了，但现在是晚上11点？他说：“没有比这更好的时间了，每个人都会这么做。”
在镇上的公园散步后，我准备去Lystpå吃晚饭，这是一家高级餐厅，但摆放着毛毯和靠垫，显得格外轻松。用石板盘子盛放的开胃菜有贻贝浓汤煎扇贝和松露炸丸子，然后是像烤驯鹿一样的主菜。当我开始品尝奶油布丁和自制甜甜圈时，我的眼前浮现出一种我在这里已经习以为常的深橘色光芒；这种光芒既丰富又振奋人心，给人带来一种平静和愉悦的感觉。难怪挪威人彻夜不眠，沉浸在它的美好之中。经营这家餐厅的米哈乌-米纳奇克告诉我，现在正是去凯瑟瓦尔登的好时候，那里是该地区最受欢迎的徒步旅行目的地之一。我已经准备好结束这顿饭了，但现在是晚上11点？他说：“没有比这更好的时间了，每个人都会这么做。”
And so I set off, crossing paths with runners and families as I begin the ascent of Veten hill, the skies burning as though the horizon’s set alight. Young children carrying sticks and leaves from their hikes skip past me, hopping over tree roots, and in just under an hour, I’ve reached the top of Keiservarden mountain plateau, where dogs run around in the wind and climbers stare out at the soft outline of the Lofoten and Steigen islands. There’s a smell of salt in the air and nothing but the sound of the wind whipping as I turn slowly, taking in the view of hazy mountains that descend into waters of pure gold. Here, in the far north, the midnight sun turns dark red and I stare at it dipping behind the clouds for a few moments. I turn and make my way back down the track at 1am, just as the sun begins to rise again.
于是我出发了，在开始攀登维滕山时，我与跑步者和家人们擦肩而过，天空灼热得仿佛地平线被点燃了。背着登山树枝和树叶的孩子们从我身边跳过，在树根上跳来跳去，不到一个小时，我就到达了凯瑟尔瓦登山顶，狗在风中奔跑，登山者凝视着罗弗敦岛和斯泰根岛柔和的轮廓。空气中弥漫着盐的味道，只有风呼啸的声音，我慢慢地转过身，朦胧的群山尽收眼底，山下是纯净的金色海水。在这里，在这极北之地，午夜的太阳变成了暗红色，我一直凝视着它从云层后倾泻而下。凌晨1点，当太阳又开始升起时，我转身沿着来时的路回去了。
于是我出发了，在开始攀登维滕山时，我与跑步者和家人们擦肩而过，天空灼热得仿佛地平线被点燃了。背着登山树枝和树叶的孩子们从我身边跳过，在树根上跳来跳去，不到一个小时，我就到达了凯瑟尔瓦登山顶，狗在风中奔跑，登山者凝视着罗弗敦岛和斯泰根岛柔和的轮廓。空气中弥漫着盐的味道，只有风呼啸的声音，我慢慢地转过身，朦胧的群山尽收眼底，山下是纯净的金色海水。在这里，在这极北之地，午夜的太阳变成了暗红色，我一直凝视着它从云层后倾泻而下。凌晨1点，当太阳又开始升起时，我转身沿着来时的路回去了。
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How to do it:
怎么去
怎么去
Byway offers a flight-free, 17-day round-trip by train from London to Oslo, Trondheim and Bodø, via Germany and Denmark, including all hotels and train tickets. Prices start from £1,788 per person.
Byway平台提供从伦敦到奥斯陆、特隆赫姆和博德，途经德国和丹麦的17天往返无飞机火车旅行，包括所有酒店和火车票。价格每人1,788英镑起。（1英镑约等于9人民币）
Byway平台提供从伦敦到奥斯陆、特隆赫姆和博德，途经德国和丹麦的17天往返无飞机火车旅行，包括所有酒店和火车票。价格每人1,788英镑起。（1英镑约等于9人民币）
Getting there & around:
路线及周边
路线及周边
Norwegian Airlines flies directly from Gatwick to Oslo multiple times a day. Norwegian and Scandinavian Airlines both fly directly to Oslo from Manchester, too.
挪威航空公司每天多次从盖特威克机场直飞奥斯陆。挪威航空公司和北欧航空公司也都有从曼彻斯特直飞奥斯陆的航班。
挪威航空公司每天多次从盖特威克机场直飞奥斯陆。挪威航空公司和北欧航空公司也都有从曼彻斯特直飞奥斯陆的航班。
Average flight time: 2h.
平均飞行时间：2小时。
原创翻译：龙腾网 https://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处
平均飞行时间：2小时。
原创翻译：龙腾网 https://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处
By train from the UK, board an evening Eurostar from St Pancras to Brussels and stay the night. Take an early train from Brussels Midi to Cologne, arriving around 8am. Board the next service to Hamburg, arriving at lunchtime, and take a late-afternoon train to Copenhagen, which arrives after 9pm. Book via Eurostar and Deutsche Bahn.
从英国乘坐火车，晚上从圣潘克拉斯车站搭乘欧洲之星前往布鲁塞尔，并在布鲁塞尔过夜。乘坐早班火车从布鲁塞尔米迪站前往科隆，大约早上8点到达。搭乘下一班列车前往汉堡，中午抵达，下午搭乘晚班列车前往哥本哈根，晚上9点后抵达。通过欧洲之星和德国铁路公司订票。
从英国乘坐火车，晚上从圣潘克拉斯车站搭乘欧洲之星前往布鲁塞尔，并在布鲁塞尔过夜。乘坐早班火车从布鲁塞尔米迪站前往科隆，大约早上8点到达。搭乘下一班列车前往汉堡，中午抵达，下午搭乘晚班列车前往哥本哈根，晚上9点后抵达。通过欧洲之星和德国铁路公司订票。
Spend a night in Copenhagen then take the 9.30am train arriving in Gothenburg at 1.20pm. Transfer onto the 2.15pm service, which arrives in Oslo at 5.44pm. Book tickets at Omio.
在哥本哈根住一晚，然后乘坐上午9:30的火车于下午1:20到达哥德堡。在Omio官网订票。（Omio是一个旅游交通出行预订平台，旨在为用户提供机票、火车以及客车的预订服务。）
在哥本哈根住一晚，然后乘坐上午9:30的火车于下午1:20到达哥德堡。在Omio官网订票。（Omio是一个旅游交通出行预订平台，旨在为用户提供机票、火车以及客车的预订服务。）
When to go:
何时出发
何时出发
To make the most of the midnight sun, travel between mid-May and mid-July. Temperatures are cool in the north, though, reaching highs of only 16-17C with lows of 8-9C. It can be humid and rainy, too, so pack plenty of layers and waterproof clothing.
为了充分享受午夜阳光，请在五月中旬至七月中旬之间前往。不过，北部地区气温较低，最高气温只有16-17摄氏度，最低气温为8-9摄氏度。这里也可能潮湿多雨，所以要多带几层衣服和防水衣物。
为了充分享受午夜阳光，请在五月中旬至七月中旬之间前往。不过，北部地区气温较低，最高气温只有16-17摄氏度，最低气温为8-9摄氏度。这里也可能潮湿多雨，所以要多带几层衣服和防水衣物。
Where to stay:
住宿
住宿
Britannia Hotel, Trondheim. Doubles from 2,695 NOK (£202), B&B.
特隆赫姆不列颠尼亚酒店。双人间从2,695挪威克朗（202英镑）起，住宿提供早餐。
特隆赫姆不列颠尼亚酒店。双人间从2,695挪威克朗（202英镑）起，住宿提供早餐。
Quality Hotel Ramsalt, Bodø. Doubles from 1,206 NOK (£90), B&B.
博德的拉姆萨尔特优质酒店。双人间1206挪威克朗（90英镑）起，住宿提供早餐。
博德的拉姆萨尔特优质酒店。双人间1206挪威克朗（90英镑）起，住宿提供早餐。
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